Burberry Prorsum / Resort 2013

4 Oct 2012

Exponentially increasing fortunes spring from Christopher Baileys manipulation of trenchcoat iconography.

Burberry’s exponentially increasing fortunes spring from Christopher Bailey’s manipulation of trench-coat iconography. Only last month the brand reported that its retail and wholesale revenues have leapt up 24 percent in the past year. Such a formula, that is clearly successful, absolutely recognizable, and unwavering in its continuity can hardly be criticised.

Bailey tagged his resort collection “sensual strictness,” but compared to other pre-collections, there’s actually more of a casual air about the reworkings of house tailoring, like his taupe-and-ivory seersucker pantsuit, paper-bag–waisted trousers coordinated with “Prorsum” print T-shirts, knits with swooped necklines, and the house’s signature shrunken motorcycle jackets. At the young end, there are cute printed shorts (actually boxers, adapted from the men’s collection) and at the slightly more mature end, pencil skirts and gorgeous dresses. The trench, though, gets its moment of glory, upgraded to a light gold lamé.

Burberry Prorsum has yet to join in the new resort cycle of hijinks and mini runway shows.

The point about Burberry is that it provides something for all ages, day to evening, city and country, and, at this commercial level, ease and familiarity probably makes more sense than too much “fashion.”


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