Vivienne Westwood Red Label 2013

26 Sep 2012

Surprisingly optimistic collection by Stephen Jones looks and feels new and fresh.

The collection felt surprisingly optimistic. The show was opened with a floral headpiece so jolly it felt like spring had sprung. A pretty little tennis dress, a gingham knitted shift, a cotton candy-stripe shirt, primly paired with a matching circle skirt. Jaunty straw boaters, padded Alice bands and even scrunchies – all by Stephen Jones – added a touch of tongue-in-cheek Sloane-y brilliance.

On the whole, there were far less appearances from the underworld characters we have come to expect on a Westwood runway – vagabonds, buccaneers, punks, equestrian fillies, subversives, Renaissance playthings. Instead, a rather prim lady took their place, but not without an air of subversion; white satin gloves by Cornelia James were worn knotted around wrists, silk head scarves tied under the chin were stuffed with flowers crowning one model’s head, and strings of pearls were flung over shoulders and left trailing down one girl’s back so that it swung with a devilish flick when she walked. There was also less of her signature décolletage-exposing drapery, and it felt new and fresh for it.

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